Snowblower & Lawn Equipment Engine Heaters
The snowblower is the only engine you own that's guaranteed to be needed at -25°C after sitting untouched for two weeks. Small air-cooled engines have no block to heat — no coolant jacket at all — but they suffer the same cold-oil problem as everything else, plus fuel and carburetor issues that big engines outgrew decades ago.
A small pad heater solves the oil. The rest — fuel, spark, primer technique — costs nothing but attention. Here's the full winter package for snowblowers, and why your mower needs none of it.
What fits, by application
Part numbers from the Zerostart / Phillips & Temro and Kat's application guides where a listing exists. Numbers are occasionally superseded — confirm against a current catalog before ordering.
Snowblower engines (Briggs & Stratton, Honda, LCT, Loncin — air-cooled singles)
The guide rule is ~10 watts per quart of oil; a snowblower sump holds barely more than half a litre.
| Part no. | Watts | Volts | Size | Type | Repl. cord |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24025 | 25 W | 120 V | 1" × 5" | Silicone pad | — |
| 24050 | 50 W | 120 V | 2" × 5" | Silicone pad | — |
Bond the pad to the bare metal of the oil sump (the flat base below the crankcase), keeping clear of the muffler and any plastic. Plug in 30–45 minutes before clearing snow — with this little oil, the pad works fast. A thermostatic outlet timer that powers the pad when temperatures drop below -15°C automates the whole thing for a machine parked near an outlet.
Oil grade does half the work
Most snowblower no-starts trace to summer oil. Small-engine manuals almost universally specify 5W-30 synthetic for winter service — and full synthetic 0W-30 where it's approved buys another few degrees. If pulling the cord feels like the engine is full of tar, it effectively is; change to winter-grade synthetic and the same engine pulls over freely at -20°C without any heater.
Fuel is the other half: ethanol-blend gas that sat since March absorbs water that freezes in the carb. Run fresh fuel with stabilizer, use the primer exactly as many times as the manual says, and close the choke fully for the first pull. Electric-start models that plug into house current sidestep the pull entirely — use them.
Mowers, pressure washers, and everything stored for winter
Equipment that hibernates needs storage care, not heat: stabilized fuel (or a dry carb), a battery on a float charger for electric-start riders, and a dry cover. The pad-heater trick only earns its keep on engines that must run in the cold — snowblowers, generators, ice-fishing augers. For a lawn tractor that plows the driveway in winter, treat it like a small tractor: 25–50 W pad on the sump, battery blanket, synthetic 5W-30.
FAQ
Is there a block heater for a snowblower?
Not a traditional one — air-cooled engines have no coolant to heat. The equivalent is a 25–50 W silicone pad heater bonded to the oil sump, plugged in half an hour before use.
Why won't my snowblower start when it's really cold?
Usually summer-grade or old oil making the engine hard to turn, stale fuel icing the carb, or a flooded cylinder from over-priming. Winter synthetic oil, fresh stabilized fuel, and the manual's exact priming count fix the overwhelming majority.
What oil should a snowblower use in Canada?
5W-30 synthetic is the standard winter spec for Briggs, Honda and the Chinese-built LCT/Loncin engines; some manuals approve 0W-30 synthetic for extreme cold. Check yours, but never run straight 30-weight in winter.
Can I use a small engine heater on a lawn mower?
You can — same 25 W pad, same install — but unless the mower works in winter (plow blade, snow thrower attachment), storage care matters more: stabilized fuel, charged battery, dry cover.
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